Various
groups of tribes who inhabited part of the territory currently
belonging to Poland from the first to the forth century A.D.,
can be distinguished from others by the burial rites and grave
goods that were specific to their way of life. This archaeological
culture is known in current scholarly literature as the Wielbark
culture. The name originates from a cemetery located in Malbork-Wielbark.
The archaeological investigations conducted in the last decades
proved beyond all doubt that this culture can be identified
with the Goths themselves. The term Wielbark culture is often
used interchangeably with Goths' culture.
The
evidence of the Goths' presence in what is currently Poland
is still not well-known and is connected, first of all, with
the cemeteries in which rich graves have been often discovered.
Among the many goods with which the dead were equipped, one
can find delicately ornamented and perfectly made pendants,
necklaces, bracelets and jewellery clasps. The objects were
often made of silver or gold using complicated goldsmith techniques,
like gilding, filigree and granulation. Unfortunately, despite
the evidence of such elaborate jewellery technology, no goldsmith
workshops have been discovered.
Inspiration
for this exhibition dedicated to Goths' jewellery has come from
the recent discoveries made in the little village of Kowalewko
near Oborniki Wielkopolskie. Archaeological excavations undertaken
during the construction of the transit gas pipeline from Russia
to Western Europe resulted in the discovery of an extensive
cemetery composed of 496 graves, some of which contain quite
unique contents. It is worth mentioning that this site is the
largest thoroughly examined necropolis in Greater Poland (Wielkopolska)
and one of the largest in the entire country.
Besides
the archaeological artifacts discovered in Kowalewko, objects
from many other Gothic cemeteries in Northern Poland have also
been presented in this exhibition.
Goths in ancient written sources
Pliny
the Elder, an ancient Roman scholar who lived in the first century
A.D., mentioned the tribe Gutones in his work
entitled Historia naturalis. Strabo, an ancient Greek
geographer, historian and traveler composed in the first century
A.D. a seventeen-volume "encyclopedia" known as Geografica
in which he mentioned the tribe Butones. The Roman
historian Tacitus produced in the first century A.D. a description
of ancient Germanic tribes entitled De origine et situ Germanorum
(often cited in the abbreviated form Germania) in which
he also named a certain tribe which he referred to as Gotones.
Ptolemy, a Roman geographer who composed his work entitled Geografica
in the second or third century A.D. mentioned the tribe Gytones,
and the Byzantine historian Procopius of Caesarea (490-562),
named a certain tribe called Gautones in his Bellum
Gothicum. According to linguists, all these names, although
different in form, refer to the same Germanic tribe known as
the Goths.
The
very famous work entitled Historia Getica was composed
in the sixth century by Cassiodor, a dignitary in the court
of king Theodoric of the Ostrogoths, and his personal secretary
to the king. Even though this treatise did not survive, we can
use the extensive summary made by the Gothic historian and chronicler
monk Jordanes in order to glimpse what Cassiodor might have
written. It is commonly known that Cassiodor's composition was
given to Jordanes to read and that Jordanes made extensive notes,
which he later used to produce his own treatise in 551 A.D.
known as De origine actibusque Getarum, or simply Gethica.
This work is the main source for all studies concerning Gothic
history beginning with the period when they settled on Polish
land. We have based our discussion of some important questions
on Jordanes' work.
Where did the Goths living on Polish land
come from?
Now
from this island of Scandza, as from a hive of races or a womb
of nations, the Goths are said to have come forth long ago under
their king, Berig. As soon as they disembarked from their ships
and set foot on the land, they straightway gave their name to
the place. And even today it is said to be called Gothiscandza.
(Jordanes, Gethica 25)
Scholars
who study the beginnings of the great migration of the Goths
have been disputing for many years where the "mythological"
lands of Scandia and Gothiscandia are located. Despite many
controversial hypotheses regarding the location of Scandia (for
example, in the provinces of Västergotland, Őstergotland, island
of Gotlandia), the fact that the Goths arrived on Polish land
from the North after crossing the Baltic Sea by boats is certain.
A similar problem of interpretation concerns the region where
the Goths first set foot on Polish land - Gothiscandia. The
following are various places often mentioned as possible landing
points: Jutland Peninsula, Odra river mouth, Vistula river mouth
or Riga's Bay. Archaeological investigations conducted in the
recent years indicate that the Goths most likely landed somewhere
in the Gdańsk Bay region.
The beginning of the migration to the
Black Sea
As
was already stated, the Goths began sailing at the turn of the
first century B.C. and landed off the coast of the Gdańsk Bay
in the first century A.D. Migration continued in several stages
lasting until ca 70 A.D. They settled in parts of Central and
East Pomerania as well as on the land along the Upper Vistula,
the Valley of the Nogat River and Chełmno uplands. One of the
most characteristic features of the "new period" compared to
the previous cultures existing in these territories are the
stone circles and accompanying grave-mounds which appeared in
Pomerania at that time. The graves were marked in a characteristic
way by erecting a pyramidal stone stele. The burials consisted
of two different types: those with crematory rites and those
with skeletal rites. It is worth mentioning that weapons were
never buried in graves, a fact which may be connected with the
following note made by Tacitus:
Beyond
the Lygians dwell the Gothones under the rule of a King; and
thence held under a subjection somewhat stricter than other
German nations, yet not so strict as to extinguish all their
liberty (...) Neither here, as amongst other nations of Germany,
are arms used indifferently by all, but they are shut up and
warded under the care of a particular keeper, who in truth too
is always a slave:, the ocean protects them from all sudden
invasions and attacks from their foes: besides the armed bands,
when they are not employed, they easily grow debauched and tumultuous.
The truth is, it suits not the interest of an arbitrary Prince,
to trust the care and power of arms with either a nobleman or
a freeman, or indeed with any man above the condition of a slave.(Tacitus,
Germania, chapter 44)
Additional
territory was settled after ca. 70 A.D. and included: Northern
Greater Poland (Wielkopolska), the entire eastern section of
Pomerania (Pomorze Wschodnie), Central Pomerania (Pomorze Środkowe)
and part of Western Pomerania (Pomorze Zachodnie). Most of the
territory inhabited west of the Vistula River was abandoned
in the first half of the third century because of still unknown
reasons and the Goths moved towards the Black Sea.
When
the Ancient Romans left the province of Dacia, which was soon
captured by the Barbarians, a great split in one of the largest
Eastern Germanic tribes can be observed. The Goths were divided
in 291 A.D. into two groups: Ostrogoths, or Eastern Goths, and
Visigoths, or Western Goths. Both of these branches, however,
closely cooperated and supported each other in times of need.
The history of the Goths after the invasion
of the Huns
We
shall recall here only the most important events from the long-lasting
and stormy history of the two divided Gothic tribes:
In
375-376 part of the Ostrogoths' tribe was conquered
by the Huns. They joined the Huns' leader, Attila, in 451 against
the ancient Roman Empire and were defeated in the battle of
the Catalaunian Plains near Châlons. After the defeat of the
Huns in 453 the Ostrogoths settled in Pannonia. They waged a
victorious war in 489-493 against Odoacer, a Germanic commander
in the service of the Western Roman Empire and established their
capital in Ravenna in Italy soon after their victory. The development
of the Ostrogoths' state can be observed during the reign of
Theodoric I (493-523), who officially became the king of Italy
in 493. Military expansion by the Eastern Roman emperor Justinian
in 535-561 resulted in weakening and subsequently the collapse
of the Ostrogoths' state in Italy.
The
Visigoths escaped the Huns by crossing the Danube
River and, with the permission of the East Roman emperor, settled
in the province of Tracia. In 378, they defeated the Roman army
at the battle of Adrianopolis. They soon captured Rome (the
first time in a few centuries), under the command of the king
Alaric I on 24 August 410 and plundered it. Two years later,
in 412, they began migrating to Southern Gaul where they established
their own state with the capital in Toulouse. The King of the
Franks, Hlodwig, forced them to leave Southern Gaul 90 years
later when he defeated them in 507 at the battle of Vouillé.
After this great defeat, the Visigoths, having obtained support
from King Theodoric I of the Ostrogoths, captured the territories
currently belonging to Spain and they created their own state
with the capital in Toledo. This state existed until the beginnings
of the 8th century when it was destroyed by an Arab invasion
(711-725).
Germanic dress in a report by an ancient
author
For
a coat a mantle is what they all wear, fastened with a clasp
or, for want of it, with a thorn. As far as this reaches, they
are not naked, and lie whole days before the fire. The wealthiest
are distinguished with a vest, not one large and flowing like
those of the Sarmatians and the Parthians, but gathered close
about them and expressing the proportion of every limb. They
likewise wear the skins of savage beasts, a dress which those
bordering the Rhine use without any fondness or delicacy but
about which those who live further in the country are more curious,
as void of all apparel introduced by commerce. They choose certain
wild beasts, and, having flayed them, diversify their hides
with many spots, as also with the skins of monsters from the
deep, such as are engendered in the distant ocean and in seas
unknown. The dress of the women does not differ from that of
the men, save that the women are orderly attired in linen embroidered
with purple, and use no sleeves so that all their arms are bare.
The upper part of their breast is entirely exposed. (Tacitus,
Germania, chapter 17)
This
short excerpt from Tacitus' Germania has been the most
complete description of Germanic dress in a written source.
According
to this historian, the most common piece of clothing for all
Germanic people was a sagum or mantle, which was similar
to the mantle worn by Ancient Roman soldiers. The mantle worn
by Germanic tribes could be buckled in two ways: either by a
fibulae or a spina, which was a spike made most probably
from bone. The fact that the Germanic people buckled their mantles
with a spike (spina) was probably included by Tacitus
in order to highlight a habit that differed from the Ancient
Romans. The subsequent part of Tacitus' report indicates that
the poor Germanic people did not wear anything except this mantle.
This style of dress fit closely to the body and, according to
some scholars, was typical for all Germanic tribes. When writing
this account, Tacitus could have been thinking of a shirt and
pants - bracae, which was so characteristic for Barbarians..
In next line, the Roman historian has also pointed out that
the each barbarian tribe wore their leather clothing differently.
The tribes inhabiting areas close to the Roman limes
did not reject foreign influences and often mixed their own
fashion with that of the "Roman" one. The tribes inhabiting
the territory in the far North, kept the more traditional and
fanciful way of dressing. Unfortunately, Tacitus did not state
which kind of dress he meant. In the last fragment of his description
the author turns his attention to the dress worn by Germanic
women, which was practically no different from the way men dressed.
This similarity, however, might be limited only to the outer
garments (mantle ?).
Tacitus
described the clothes of the Germanic people, barbarians inhabiting
the territories North of the Rhine and Danube Rivers, in such
way. His written account should be compared to archaeological
sources.
Development of styles and the differentiation
of clothing elements
Archaeologists
can utilize, first of all, skeletal graves as a source for analysis
of clothing elements, because individual clothing elements were
found in situ. Among all cultural circles, Gothic clothing is
the easiest to reconstruct due to the burial rites carried out
by the Goths.
As
usual, we started our analysis by exploring the pragmatic function
of an object. We will not repeat here the compulsory model of
the Wielbark culture during its entire existence. It is enough
to say that one can find one or two identical buckles on the arms
(or shoulders), and a third, often quite different from the previous
two in terms of its size and shape, on the chest or close to the
head (a women's or child's bonnet). The belts usually worn on
the hips and pins made of various materials were stuck into clothes.
Necklaces, bead necklaces, pendants, and S-shaped fasteners adorned
the neck while bracelets decorated the wrists. There was no marked
difference between accessories in women's and children's graves.
The men's graves, however, were usually modestly equipped. Single
objects, ranging from modest bronze fibulae and pins made of bone
to highly ornamented jewellery, such as necklaces or S-shaped
fasteners, might indicate the social status of the man who used
them.
The
form and quantity of the objects have changed over the centuries
together with fashion styles. This development can be traced according
to following patterns:
Period
I (beginning of the 1st century A.D. - 70 A.D.)
This
period can be presented in a very modest way regarding clothing
elements. Besides the fibulae only bronze or iron buckles, single
glass or amber beads, bronze S-shaped fasteners, single bronze
bracelets and bronze or iron pins were worn.
Period
II (70-170 A.D.)
In
comparison with the previous period, this one is marked by a broader
diversity in ornamentation, which can be linked with certainty
to the dynamic development of local crafts. This same kind of
fibulae can still be found (in addition to bronze, some silver
fibulae were also discovered) and they are often found in graves
in groups of three. The type of belt changed during this period.
Fittings on the belt ends and buckles were usually added and so-called
link joints, to which various utensils were attached. By the end
of this period one could observe almost only fibulae made of bronze
and the number of beads in a necklace increased (beads worn on
the hands or on belts were also found). A new form of bracelet
appeared with the ends stylized like a serpent's head that were
made of bronze (rarely of silver) and necklaces with cauri shells,
which were imported from the Mediterranean Sea. Delicately produced
pear-shaped and oval-shaped golden pendants imported from the
Jutland Peninsula were also discovered. These pendants had a significant
influence on later periods concerning the spread of jewellery
ornamentation technologies like filigree and granulation.
Period
III (170-230 A.D.)
This
period marked the most splendid development in ornamentation art
and is often referred to by the term "baroque". It is characterized
by an impressive diversity of jewellery, which was certainly affected
by the vivid trade contacts with tribes inhabiting the Western
Coast of the Baltic Sea and territory along the Elbe River. The
Goths proved their perfection in the utilization of filigree (or
its imitation), granulation, the setting of delicately ornamented
silver or gilded plates as well as inlaying.
Among
the typical decorations of this period, often found in one grave,
one can find: silver double-coned beads, S-shaped fasteners made
only of silver and gold, silver bracelets with serpent heads made
from a broad metal band and serpentine bracelets with cachet-shaped
clips. Necklaces, which are often composed of hundreds of glass
or amber beads sill remained fashionable. Bucket-shaped and capsular
pendants as well as pear-shaped golden pendants were still in
use. Silver necklaces also appeared. One can also observe many
different forms of belt buckles and fittings. Besides the typical
custom of burying one, two or three fibulae with the deceased
a grave with as many as six fibulae was also encountered.
This
period offers not only an inestimable amount of information about
clothing accessories but also about the style of dress itself.
The relatively large number of surviving fabrics (these were mainly
attached to metal accessories) allows one to conclude that the
Goths wore outer garments as well as underwear and shirts, both
with sleeves and without. the Relics of dresses and shawls show
that women wore long outer dresses and shirts. These clothes were
usually made from sheep wool, which was sometimes dyed yellow,
red or blue.
Period
IV (230 A.D. - end of the 4th A.D.)
A
decline in goldsmiths' work can be observed during this period
as decorations became simpler and some ornamental forms disappeared.
The fibulae became shabbier in form. Golden and silver pear- and
oval-shaped pendants were replaced by bronze and iron bucket-shaped
pendants. A new and very common habit developed: wearing pendants
on one's belt. Especially popular, were the 8-shaped pendants
made of amber. Only bead necklaces can still impress with their
richness. One may suppose that all these changes were caused by
the spreading of a new Central European style, which was adopted
from the Roman legionnaires during the wars.
Why "Jewellery of the Goths", and not "The
Goths' Jewellery"
Not
every ornament worn by the Goths was produced by them. A portion
of their jewellery was imported. The so-called "amber trade route'
existed in the first century A.D. Amber, the main object of trade,
was found along the Baltic Sea coast ranging from the Sambian
Peninsula, through Curonian and Vistula's spits to the Vistula
river mouth. Amber was collected in a trading-post called
commercium
(this expression was used by Pliny the Elder). Then, it was transported
along the Vistula and Odra (Oder) Rivers through the Moravian
Pass to Carnuntum (Northern Austria) and later to Aquileia in
Northern Italy. The important role of trade agents with the Roman
provinces of Noricum and Pannonia was played by the tribes of
Quads and Markomans living in neighboring territories. The great
strongholds (Carnuntum, Aquincum, Brigetio), which were to protect
the Northern borders of the Roman Empire, also developed in the
course of time into trading-posts. On the one hand, such places
often traded in unpolished amber (later also with polished amber
objects), on the other hand they also dealt with precious goods
like pottery (silver, bronze, glass), weapons and adornments.
In
a later period, ca. 70-170 A.D., a sea route was established that
ran to and through Denmark. The territories along the central
Danube were involved in the wars between the barbarian tribes
and Roman troops in 166/167-180 A.D. These wars are known as the
Markomans' wars. As a consequence of these events, trade with
the Northern lands weakened and the trade route lost its importance.
The amber trade was maintained almost entirely through the Danish
islands, and goods were imported from the Roman province of Gaul,
which was located south of the Rhine. This situation influenced
the creation of a new trade route, known as the
Eastern trade
route, running from the Baltic Sea coast through Hrubieszów's
valley to the Black Sea.
Basic decorative techniques
Granulation
- making decorative ornaments with tiny golden or silver balls
called granules on a supporting material. The balls are made by
pouring molten metal on powdered charcoal, where it sprinkles
like spilled mercury and congeals. Another way of making such
balls consists of pouring molten metal through a sieve with charcoal
over a water container. Sieves with various mesh density are used
to sort the congealed balls, and then the balls, different in
size, are used in arranging decorative motifs and finally they
are soldered onto supporting material.
Filigree
- creating on objects or their parts a tiny azure netting composed
with the use of little wires. The basic elements in filigree work
are thin fine wires which are twisted around each other (in a
less elaborated form, a single little wire was incised to simulate
the tangles). After the wires are prepared in this way, they are
arranged in decorative motifs and finally soldered onto a base
material.
Gilding
- the technique of covering silver or copper objects with very
thin layer of gold. The oldest method, known from Ancient Times,
is the so-called method of "gilding in fire" or in other words
"gilding with amalgam". In the first stage of this technique a
proper amalgam is prepared, consisting of one portion of pure
gold and 8 portions of melted mercury. The object, which will
be covered with gold, has to be carefully cleaned, and then heated
in fire. Then, the prepared object is covered with amalgam using
a small brush. Finally, the object is polished.
Inlaying
- the technique of making decorative elements using different
colors of the object to being encrusted. The most commonly used
method of encrusting is based on the idea of engraving the object
with precise little grooves in which a properly shaped wire can
be inserted or set.
Enameling
- the technique of making decorative ornaments on metal objects
with glass pieces covering selected fragments of the object. Among
the many methods of enameling, one can name: thin wire enameling,
cell enameling, groove enameling and relief enameling. All of
these methods are based on delimitating spaces, which will be
covered with glass pastes and then ground and polished.
Selected bibliography:
Gradowski M. |
|
Dawne złotnictwo. Technika i terminologia, Warszawa |
Kokowski A. |
|
Archeologia Gotów. Goci w Kotlinie Hrubieszowskiej, Lublin |
Kolendo J, Mączyńska M. |
|
Opis stroju germańskiego w Germanii Tacyta. Próba konfrontacji tekstu i danych archeologicznych, Kwartalnik Historii Kultury Materialnej XXXIX/3, 247-277. |
Strzelczyk J. |
|
Goci - rzeczywistość i legenda, Warszawa |
Tacyt |
|
Germania, przekł. S. Hammera, [w:] Dzieła II, Warszawa, 1957, 265-290. |
Tempelmann-Mączyńska M. |
|
Części stroju kobiecego w okresie rzymskim na obszarze środkowo- i wschodnioeuropejskiego Barbaricum, Kraków |
Wolfram H. |
|
Historia Gotów, Warszawa-Gdańsk |
Wołągiewicz R. |
|
Napływ importów rzymskich do Europy na północ od środkowego Dunaju, Archeologia Polski XV, z. 1, 207-252 |
Zwolski E. |
|
Kasjodor i Jordanes. Historia gocka czyli scytyjska Europa, Lublin |
I
would like to express my deep thanks to those Institutions and
people whose kind help in organizing this exhibition and whose
permission to present certain objects has made this event so attractive.
The Institute of Archaeology, Łódź University
The Institute of Archaeology, Mikołaj Kopernik University in Toruń
The Archaeological Museum in Gdańsk
The Ethnographic - Historical Museum in Chojnice
The Elbląg Museum
The Koszalin Museum
The Lębork Museum
The National Museum in Szczecin
The Górka Castle Museum in Szamotuły
Translation
Rafał Witkowski